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Walk around the area

Take a stroll around the area. Check out some of these cool places and read about Swedens first political bombing.

This is a map and tour guide for the area around Universitetsholmen and Varvsbassängen

The shown positions on the map for 19. Tintin and Blue Boat and 7. Bore are outdated. The correct locations at the moment (march 2019) is that Tintin and Blue Boat are stationed at pos 7.

Read the guide in swedish.

Comments, questions or corrections? You’re welcome to e-mail me malte@valfarden.nu

Enjoy!

Station A: Malmö Live.

POI 11: WMU “The Tower House”

The Port Authority, popularly called the tower house “Tornhuset”, built in 1910 to replace the smaller, old Hamnmästarbostället, Harbour Masters House.

1997- 2015 it housed Malmö University administration and principal expedition. After they moved to new premises nearby, the plan was to house the United Nations University World Maritime University in the premises.

First, the plan was to stick to the original style. Then the city officials wanted something more spectacular to reflect the coming Malmo Live in the neighbouring block. A plan that unfortunately was more than twice as expensive as expected, from the budgeted 48 million to a final bill of 112 million, paid for by the City of Malmö. City Office approved cost increases and were of the opinion that the property of this extension will “make a lasting feature of Malmö’s architecture.”

Tornhuset sedd från nuvarande Anna Lindhs Plats. Den gamla uppdragningsplatsen är för länge sedan ersatt av en modern kaj.

The Towe House seen from Anna Lindhs Plats.

POI 12: Old Harbour Office

On May 20, 1834 Jöns Malmquist, an alderman of the brewers guild, filed a petition to the port Executive Board meeting. Jöns suggested that a harbour masters office should be built in the harbour “when the current Harbour Master Petersson, after twenty years of zealous and faithful service, and in growing years, is getting tired of the walks from his home to the harbour several times every day.”

1835 the Harbour Office was built. The brewer Jons Malmquist thus saw to that the port captain got close to his work place – and therefore better could assist the city’s brewing industry with transportation.

Petter Petersson was born in 1780 in S:t Olaf and immigrated to Malmö from Lund in 1804. He became customs guard master and was appointed by the magistrate to harbour master in 1814. In more than twenty years he lived with his wife and seven children in the rotan 81, i.e. in the rental barracks Jerusalem in the slums of the East Malmö.

From the new harbour office Petter Petersson had control of the port, more or less every day and all year round for another fourteen years before he was replaced by his successor Anders Åberg 1849, the same year his wife died. With pension and gold medal Petter Petersson moved to Ystad, but died later the same year.

In 2010 the house was raised, put on wheels and rolled 250 meters to Neptuniparken while a parking garage was built on the plot. 2011 the building was rolled back and now contains a tavern with a focus on beer.

Hamnmästarbostället till höger. Tornhuset till vänster. Staty av Frans Suell i förgrunden.

To the right The Old Harbour Office. To the left the New Harbour Office, the Tower House. Statue of Frans Suell, one of the founders of the modern Malmö Harbour.

POI 13: Seamen’s church.

Surrounded by new buildings on all sides the church seems a relic of a bygone era. Seamen’s Church in Malmö was established by the Swedish church in the early 1900’s, intended primarily for sailors and dock workers. It was moved to its present location only in 1960.

The building consists of two bayed brick longhouses. Väktarhuset, the Watch House, built in 1851, housed the port’s security guards, who later became Malmö’s first police officers. The second wing was built in 1909 and the two are united by the Seamen’s Church, Anshelm St. Nicholas Chapel.

Sjörmanskyrkans västra flygel.

Seamen’s church

POI 14: Malmö Live,

When Malmö first got its town status in the 1200’s the Öresund shoreline went just below Norra Vallgatan. Thus, the port area north of the current canal did not exist at all. Along with Norra Vallgatan ran a wall with towers and gates into the city. Inside – a bustling, crowded and dirty city life. Outside the wall, fishermen landed their catch.

After Skåne became Swedish the swedes strengthened the cities defenses. Moats, fortifications and bastions was built. Opposite Malmo Live you can see two protruding portions of the canal. This is the remains of the bastion Nykoping and bastion Älvsborgsbron.

Until the late 1700’s Malmö lacked a harbour altogether. The ships anchored in the strait and the cargo was shipped on barges to dock at the existing Centre. 1774 Frans Suell along with fellow businessmen and industrialists began construction of the port.

The location of Malmo Live was claimed from the sea first around 1850. The district housed a “bone mill”, grinding bones into bone meal to spread on the fields as fertilizer. The bone collectors supplied the mill with raw material, a kind of forerunner to today’s copper thiefs. Sometimes the bones was gathered at a nearby cemeteries.

In modern times the area was occupied with rugged storage- and packing buildings, including Salt Importen, the Seamen’s Church, Malmö West Station, Sailor Hotels and parking lots. The development had a drastic turn for the better when the city again began to expand to the west. Now the worn down but central area is occupied with housing, offices, hotels and shops.

As the latest and most spectacular addition to Malmö’s skyline Malmo Live house a hotel, a restaurant and concert halls with its own symphony orchestra.

The views from the hotel’s Skybar is spectacular. Here you can see, on a clear day, across the Öresund bridge to Copenhagen, the closed down Barsebäck nuclear plant in the north and the port in detail. The skybar was only meant to be an exclusive place for hotel guests and invitees. But the plan was later changed to the benefit of the public. The sound in the concert halls is designed with the latest technology in acoustics and praised by the visiting international artists.

The Malmo Live project was criticized for being Malmös worst run and most expensive deal ever, where local residents had to put in 1.3 billion SEK instead of the original budget of 192 million. It’s easy to make fun of the four scrapers shooting into the sky as symbolizing the cost development of the project.

Där nuvarande Malmö Live ligger idag låg tidigare bl.a. Saltimporten och en benmölla. Perspektiv från andra sidan kanalen dvs. från Norra Vallgatan.

Warehouses, industries and bone mill.

Read more:

http://www.sydsvenskan.se/malmo/livad-fiskehamn-blev-malmo-live/

Station B: High Court.

POI 15: New High Court.

Directly north, across the canal from the Old High Court, is the New High Court. Built in 2009 and the public stage for many high-profile cases. The court building is designed by the most famous danish architect, Kim Holst Jensen, and the similarities with the Library in Copenhagen, The Black Diamond, are obvious.

Read more:

Officiell sida: http://www.hovrattenskaneblekinge.domstol.se/Om-hovratten/

Sydsvenskan: http://www.sydsvenskan.se/malmo/ny-hovratt-kostar-250-miljoner/

POI 16: Old High Court.

Built in 1917, “Honest Swede” was the motto of the architect, in a period of transition of Swedens rule and law. Death penalty was abolished. Equal voting rights introduced. Men and womens equal rights etc. Today the building houses a conference and restaurant business.

Read more:

Wikipedia: https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamla_Hovr%C3%A4tten,_Malm%C3%B6

Malmö Stad: http://malmo.se/Kultur–fritid/Kultur–noje/Arkiv–historia/Kulturarv-Malmo/H-K/Hovratten.html

Vykort med motiv av den gamla hovrätten, sett från andra sidan kanalen, vid nuvarande nya hovrätten.

Postcard portraying the old High Court..

POI 17: Malmöhus castle.

Malmöhus castle is the oldest renaissance castle in Scandinavia. The strategic location was chosen by Erik af Pommern. From here the original citadel dominated the shipping traffic of the southern Öresund as well as the western parts of Malmö town.

A hundred years later the citadel was demolished when the townspeople rebelled against the Danish monarchy. The rising was part of the Danish civil war 1534-1536 when Count Oldenburg of Lübeck led his troops in an attempt to reinstate the old danish king on the throne. On the other side stood the danish noblemen supporting the new king Christian III. The latter came out victorious, which consolidated protestantism and the nobility’s power. After the rising the king ordered the Malmö residents to rebuild the castle as well as a new palace for him.

When Sweden conquered Scania in 1658 the royal residence feature of the castle disappeared and instead Malmöhus became the key garrison of the swedish occupation against the danes.

During the late 16th century the military importance was lost and Malmöhus was instead used as a prison fortress. With some 1000 prisoners of mixed sorts, murderers and poors alike, it was a ticking timebomb. Drunkenness, abuse as well as harsh disciplinary punishments were everyday life here.

Malmöhus Slott. Sedd från Tekniska Museets håll.

Malmöhus Castle.

Annan tid. Samma perspektiv. 2

Another era but the same angle.

Read more:

http://www.sfv .se/sv/fastigheter/sverige/skane-lan-m/malmohus/

http://malmo.se/Kultur–fritid/Kultur–noje/Arkiv–historia/Kulturarv-Malmo/L-O/Malmohus-slott.html

POI 18. Fishermens shacks “Hoddorna”.

It is said that the herring (sill) is the mother of Malmö. In the middle ages villages started to grow around Öresund. According to tell-tales the sea was so full of herring one could stand on the shore and pick it up with your bare hands. In Skanör the big herring market was established, but Malmö was also on the rise. In the 16th century the fishing industry boomed to provide food for a growing population. The fisher shacks was a common sight in this area from the 19th century until modern time. In 1956 the professional fishermen donated their shacks to the museum and they were moved to their current location.

Från Hoddorna kan du köpa färsk fisk och skaldjur, se öppettider på fiskehoddorna.se

At “Hoddorna” you can buy fresh sea food and fish.  fiskehoddorna.se

Read more:

Malmö Stad.

http://malmo.se/Kultur–fritid/Kultur–noje/Arkiv–historia/Kulturarv-Malmo/E-G/Fiskehoddorna.html

POI 9. The Mill “Malmö Stora Valskvarn”.

One of the few industries that is still in use in central Malmö. AB Malmo Great Walskvarn mill founded in Malmö in 1881 and has been in use since then.

The mill location in the city are becoming more central as the port area north of the mill is converted to urban development. Industrial operations in the mill is less suited to this place, and a few years ago Lantmännen signed an agreement with the municipality that by 2030 they will move production.

The mill produces flour around the clock throughout the year and has a capacity of about 775 tons of grain / day. On the mill’s north side, ships with grain deliveries dock and unload up to 180 tons of grain per hour. 55 ships arrive here every year. When processed in the mill, the flour is unloaded by an automated system, allowing the trucks to pick up flour at any time of day.

Malmö Stora Walskvarn.

Malmö Stora Walskvarn.

Samma kvarn. En annan tid och ett annat perspektiv.

The same mill in modern times. From the opposite angle.

Read more:

http://malmo.se/download/18.7de6400c149d2490efb5f243/1417172136328/Rapport_2013_012_low.pdf

POI 23: New Market Hall

The new market hall is a private initiative by siblings Martin & Nina Karyd. It is based in the old goods shed in the west of the station area. The original freight shed was built in the late 1800s and was part of the west station area on the railway between Malmö and Ystad. Traffic was shut down in 1955, when the railroad got a connection at Malmö Central Station.

The New Market Hall: http://www.malmosaluhall.se/

The Old Market Hall (Lilla Torg) : http://mitthjartasmalmo.se/filmerna/volym_5/lilla_torg_forvandlas_1968/

POI 19. Blå Båten och Tintin

The “TinTin” boat is something so unique as a photo studio and creative studio. In the summertime they open up the cafe and the boat can also be rented for private parties. The captain and photographer Linus Höök is also part owner of the neighboring boat “Blue boat”, along with comedian Valle Westesson. Blue boat is a entertainment and party boat with both public and private events. Visit a gig or a quiz night and get the boat’s gorgeous interior as bonus.

Read more : http://studiotintin.com/

Hem

Tintin i Malmö hamn

Tintin in Malmö harbour.

Nöjesbåten Blå Båten.

Blå Båten.

Station C. Beijerskajen / Bassängkajen.

POI 1: Turning Torso

Turning Torso was in 2005 the tallest building of Sweden and the Nordic region’s tallest skyscraper. The building was designed by architect Santiago Calatrava and is owned by HSB Malmo.

In the first zoning plan that was made for the housing exhibition Bo01 in 1999 was a 25-storey building plotted on the location of the Turning Torso. The management of the exhibition company that arranged Bo01 had at this stage contacts with Santiago Calatrava and the wish for him to design a temporary information pavilion for the fair. Discussions then began to be about the possibility of Calatrava to draw even a skyscraper.
A sculpture made by Calatrava was discussed as a model. When Calatrava was engaged in the task the tower gradually kept getting higher and higher and zoning plans had to be redone. Although costs soared from 800 million kronor the HSB Board approved the budget to an estimated 1.8 billion. This caused great debate in the member-owned HSB. Interest in buying the apartments in the Turning Torso was unfortunately low, and it was soon decided to be converted into rental units. Even before the inauguration in 2005 HSB discussed the possible sale of the property, however at the discounted price 1 billion, which again stirred up criticism within the association. HSB management has not put its plans to sell the torso.
If you want to rent a 5 room apartement in Turning Torso you will have to pay approximately 25000 SEK.

Turning Torso sedd från sundet.

Turning Torso seen from the water

POI 2: Draw bridge “Klaffbron”

The drawbridge is one of two opening bridges in Malmö harbour. The second is the nearest neighbour University Bridge (which actually has just been opened twice to let boats in, but opens every fortnight for maintenance). The drawbridge was for a long time the only entrance to the shipyard and thousands of Kockums ship yard workers walked and cycled over it into the area every morning, past the sentry box on the other side and into their workplaces. It has become an important symbol of the yard’s heyday. It is now planned to be replaced, because the narrow bridge is no longer suited for today’s intense car traffic to the Western Harbour. Malmo City wants to replace the drawbridge with a fixed bridge, but this would completely block off the entrance to the shipyard basin, which causes Lantmännen / Ceralia and EWP “which manufactures wind turbines) to protest.

Klaffbron

Klaffbron

A short distance from the drawbridge Malmö Inner Lighthouse rises, a striped and polka octagonal lighthouse made of iron. The original was built in 1822, a 14 m high lighthouse tower made of wood. This was replaced in 1878 by the present lighthouse. In 1936 the lighthouse was decommissioned and today it has only a decorative function. A light bulb is lit in the lighthouse at the same time as the street lights go on (ie when it gets dark).

Vykort med fyren. Okänt datum.

Postcard of unknown date.

POI 3: The Amalthea attack.

This is the scene of one of the most spectacular political attacks in Sweden’s modern history. After a conflict with the harbour workers escalated to strike, the employers decided to lockout the workers and instead use imported strike breakers to do their job. Demonstrations, riots and street brawls followed.

The british strike breakers were accomodated on the ship Amalthea in the harbour. On the 12th of july 1908 three young socialists put a bomb on the ship, the detonation killing one and wounding several more. The bomber fled in a rowing boat over the harbour, but unfortunately dropped the pay roll in the boat, reavling his identity. If you search the quayside you may find the 100 years anniversary memorial plaque.

Amalthea, logementskeppet som huserade engelska strejkbrytare, efter bombdådet.

Amalthea, the bombed ship.

POI 4: The Kockums ship yard.

Founded in 1840, the Kockums Mechanical workshop manufactured farm implements, distillery appliances, stoves, furnaces and from 1850 also railway wagons. In 1870 there was built a shipyard in the workshop.

During the years leading up to WWI Kockums focused more and more production onto ships, railroad cars and bridges. During the 1950’s and 60’s the Kockums shipyard was one of the largest in the world with a focus mainly on large cargo ships. During this period the shipyard was one of the main employers in Malmö.

In connection with the economic downturn in the mid-1970’s, Kockums sold or shut down parts of the manufacturing, and operations concentrated on restructuring the shipbuilding business. As a result of profitability problems the Swedish State Shipbuilding AB took over the running of Kockums in 1979. The civilian ship production was closed down in 1987 and then the production shifted to military ships only.

Even today Kockums and is part of the German group ThyssenKrupp Marine Systems. Kockums AB now has approximately 300 employees in Malmö. These works mainly with submarine design, research and development.

Read more:

http://malmo.se/Kultur–fritid/Kultur–noje/Arkiv–historia/Kulturarv-Malmo.html

Film:

http://mitthjartasmalmo.se/filmerna/volym_5/ett_fartyg_lamnar_kockums_1955/

Fasad vid torrdockan.

Facade by the dry dock

Torrdockan. Till höger syns Media Evolution City.

Tthe dry dock. To the right Media Evolution City.

POI 5: Spitzbunker.

This pointy thing is a soon to be 100-year old bunker. In german “Spitzbunker” or “Winkeltürme”, named after its designer Leo Winkel. This is the only spitzbunker in scandinavia and was built after the outbreak of the second world war. Designed so that a dropping bomb would bounce of the metal point and detonade a way off. The purpose was to accomodate the managers at the Kockums ship yard in case of a bomb attack. This model was probably chosen because the nearby water made it impossible for a normal underground bunker.

Read more:

http://malmo.se/Kultur–fritid/Kultur–noje/Arkiv–historia/Kulturarv-Malmo/P-S/Skyddstorn.html

http://www.sydsvenskan.se/malmo/vad-ar-det-for-ett-coolt-torn/

Spitzbunkern vid Kockums varvet

Spitzbunker by the Kockums ship yard

POI 6: Orkanen / Malmö Högskola

As a first step to establish Malmö Högskola in this area Orkanen (The Hurricane) was built in 1998. It houses the university’s teacher education and the main library. The construction of The Hurricane was a clear step to connect the central town with the growing Western harbor and the area called Dockan.

The location was previously used as unloading and storage area for moored boats.

Orkanen, sedd från Universitetsbron.

Orkanen, as seen from the University bridge.

POI 8: Välfärden

Välfärden (The Welfare) is our own restaurant. Welcome to lunch, fika and refreshments.

The area was previously used as a warehouse for coal, coke and other bulk goods. In old pictures from this part of the harbour low wooden buildings are visible, next to the large feeder lanes and the cranes on the quayside.

The wooden building closest to the drawbridge is the only remaining building from that time.

Kockums varv, Västra hamnområdet 1940-talet

Kockums Shipyard in the 1940’s.

Station D. Anna Lindhs plats.

POI 7: Steam boat icebreaker Bore

The steam icebreaker S/S Bore was launched 1894. She was built by Kockums Mechanical Works on behalf of the city of Malmoe. Her primary task was serving as icebreaker in the Oresund Channel, but also as a replacement ferry in icy and difficult conditions. S/S Bore is today considered the oldest steam powered icebreaker in the world that still runs on her original steam engine.

S/S Bore was in active service for nearly 75 years and served during this period even as a gunboat in both world wars. She can also be seen in Jan Troells film, “The Flight of the Eagle”, about the swedish polar explorer Andrée.

When Bore was finally taken out of service in 1968, the reason was not insufficient capacity as an icebreaker but rather the high cost of maintenance and the advent of new technology. After many years of neglect in the Malmö harbour the threat of demolition was getting ever more real. Bore was however saved in 1983 when Swecox International AB, under the guidance of Knuth Borg bought her from the City of Malmoe. She was first towed to Stockholm to finally end up in Västerås. An enormous restauration work commenced in 1984 which was made possible by a large number of enthusiasts and skillful craftsmen. Bore is today in as good shape as the day she was launched. The good condition of the hull, boiler and the steam engine was the main reason that the restauration could take place at all.

As an icebraker Bore can steam through up to 30 cm thick ice without slowing down and break through pack ice up to h 3 meters thick. She is also equipped with a bilge pump with a capacity of app. 600 m3 per hour.

After 16 years of restoration, renovation and reconstruction to original condition, Bore in 1999 made her longest journey on her own power when she returned från Västerås to Malmoe. This former icebreaker was one of the first vessels that sailed under the then recently completed Oresund Bridge when she returned to her home port of Malmoe for a life in public service.

However, the timing was not right and after a few weeks Bore was forced to leave Malmoe again. After another 13 years in Västerås she would return to Malmoe. Conditions had changed and this time the City of Malmoe was able to greet her with open arms. Where else would she be after all these years but in her old home port where she was built and served her active life?

Läs mer:  http://ssbore.se/in-english/

Steamboat icebreaker Bore.

Steamboat icebreaker Bore.

POI 20: The Stock Exchange

Sweden was in the early 1700’s a war nation. Across Europe stories circulated about the young Karl XII exploits. The telltales soon also told about his defeat. A young German immigrant named Frans Suell accused of coins provisions, was in prison at Malmöhus Castle. He got permission to seek mercy of the warrior king Karl XII. It dragged on and Frans fell asleep in the waiting room. The king came out, took the letter of mercy from the sleeper’s hand and wrote, “approved, Carolus.” An amazed Frans Suell woke up, now pardoned.

Frans Suells’ grandchild was also named Frans Suell. Confusing, yes, but not unusual at this time. The new Frans traveled to his ancestral homeland Germany and met with a rich merchant, Salomon Roosen, who became a life long mentor and partner to Frans. Back home in Malmö Frans began to build a business empire in among other things, sugar, a lime quarry in Limhamn, shipping company, a clothing factory and a tobacco industry in the Main Square. It was through the latter that Frans Suell went from being a really wealthy man to an infinitely rich man. By a fortunate slip an employee wrote a zero too much in a tobacco order for Suells tobacco industry. The huge shipment from America was made, even though it was a mistake, and then by a twist of fate the American Civil War broke out, with blockades of ports as a result. The price of tobacco soared and Frans sat happily with a huge inventory. At the same time Frans Suell and other businessmen invested in an expansion of the Port of Malmö. The building now called the Stock Exchange was originally built as the port’s customs house 1877.

POI 21: The Central station

POI 22: The Old Post Office.

Between the central station and steamboat bridge the grand Old Post Office rises in the National Romantic style. The architect Ferdinand Boberg was at the turn of the century one of the country’s leading architects and had a few years earlier drawn a post house for Stockholm, but considered the Post Office in Malmö to be his greatest work. He also designed the grand plan for the Baltic Exhibition in Malmo in 1914.

Posthuset.

The Old Post Office